Skin Care Tips by Sarah

It’s easy to say “Don’t smoke because it’s bad for your skin,” but you already know the basic truth. It’s time to talk about just how damaging smoking is to your skin, and how significant and premature the effects can be.

You may be a 20-something social smoker who has only a few cigarettes on the weekends when you’re out with friends and don’t feel the need to quit because you see no signs of aging. Or, you may be a pack-a-day smoker who is a regular client at a spa because you see the deep lines, rough texture and skin discoloration. Either way, it’s time to start educating you in a way that is not lecturing, but enlightening.

Let’s start with the facts.

There is no miracle treatment or ingredient that will completely reverse the damage caused by years of smoking. However, for those of you who are making the choice to save your skin, you can help with treatments that will rehydrate the skin, revitalize the complexion and deliver the needed oxygen that’s been robbed by cigarettes.

Smoking chokes skin. The fountain of youth is in the bloodstream, but smoking cigarettes causes a restriction of the blood vessels, “choking” them, which then reduces blood supply to the skin. This results in a reduction in oxygen, which is necessary for cell regeneration and the ability to carry away damaging free radicals, so toxins build up and accelerate aging.

Even smoking a single cigarette can result in vasoconstriction for up to 90 minutes. Smoking for 10 minutes decreases tissue oxygen for almost an hour. That means a pack-a-day smoker will have skin with a reduced oxygen supply for most of the day.

Smoking thins skin. A recent British study focused on 25 pairs of identical twins, one a lifetime smoker and one who never smoked. Using an ultrasound to gauge skin thickness, the smokers’ skin was 25% thinner than the nonsmokers’, and was as much as 40% thinner in a few of the cases.²

Smoking destroys skin’s collagen and elastin. The appearance of wrinkles and loose or sagging skin is caused by the destruction of collagen and elastin—complex structural proteins that are necessary to keep skin firm, elastic and strong. Smoking robs skin of vitamin C, which is necessary for collagen production, and keeps skin soft and revitalized. It also interrupts the production of the matrix metalloproteinase enzyme, which regulates collagen production.

Smoking causes vertical lines around the mouth. When smokers take a puff from a cigarette, it forces the lips to pucker and form the same lines around the mouth over and over again. Throughout time, these contractions become permanent wrinkles. Pucker lines are a dead giveaway that someone is a smoker.

Smoking slows skin healing. Smoking delays the skin’s ability to regenerate. Wounds take longer to heal, and scars are more likely to form. Many good cosmetic surgeons won’t even operate on a smoker.

Even if you don’t see age signs yet, it can take up to 10 years to appear. So, don’t let it fool you, it’s coming.

The Latest Dietary Guidelines and Your Skin

Whole grains. These products contain a wealth of skin-healthy nutrients such as antioxidants and fiber, which can stabilize your blood sugar and prompt skin repair. Look for products that list “whole grain” as their first ingredient. Expand beyond wheat to other grains such as quinoa (pronounced keen-wah), oatmeal, bulgur, whole-grain barley and brown rice.

Fruits and vegetables. Leafy green vegetables contain many antioxidants and other anti-inflammatory nutrients, as well as fiber, which again can regulate blood sugar.

Tea. Green, black and other teas are a good source of antioxidants, in contrast to coffee, which has a lot of acid that can increase insulin production and inflammation, and ultimately cause wrinkling. “Limit coffee to one cup a day, or switch to tea,” she recommends.

Healthy fats. Fatty, ocean-sourced fish such as salmon, albacore tuna, herring, anchovies and sardines, as well as walnuts, flaxseed, and canola oil are good sources of omega-3 fatty acids, which may reduce inflammation in your body that could be exacerbating skin conditions. These essential fatty acids also help to keep your skin healthy, maintain its natural oil barrier and make it look younger (less wrinkly) and clearer. Other sources of “good fats” are olive oil and avocados.

Plant protein is a good alternative to red meat. Contrary to popular belief, most plants are very rich in protein. It is best to eat plants in salad form, or lightly steamed, as cooking them destroys many of their vital nutrients.

The guidelines also encourage people to consume less sodium, saturated and trans fats, added sugars and refined grains such as white flour. No foods are off-limits, but the guidelines encourage portion control and calorie modification.

It’s important to limit milk and milk products to one or two servings a day rather than the three recommended. The data suggests that dairy products can be problematic for people with acne and other inflammatory skin conditions. These products may prompt the body to produce more of the male hormones, called androgens, which cause more oil and sebum that can clog pores. Additionally, dairy produced in non-organic farms may contain external hormones and pesticides, which can exacerbate skin conditions. Eating calcium-rich vegetables such as spinach and collard greens to compensate for eating less dairy.

Dirty make up Applicators can lead to clogged pores and congestion. If you are using sponges, throw them away! They are only good for one time use. After that, they are just another place for bacteria to live on. Clean your make up brushes once a week using a brush cleaner or cheap shampoo (dish detergent can dry them out and damage the brush).

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